29 November 2008

History of the Shan State: From Its Origins to 1962 by U Sai Aung Tun
by Naw Liang
in London, UK and Trieste, Italy


Mai soong kha
everyone!

Athough this is a shorter posting than usual, it is no less important. As many Shan enthusiasts and productive academics can attest, the expanse of literature on the Shan literature is, though growing daily, lacking. After only a few years of investigation, interested can find that, without becoming multi-lingual or an expert researcher, additional information on the Shan can be difficult to find. So, when a new text focused on the Shan is born, it is bound to garner a wealth and wave of interest.

Such is the case with a recent publication on Shan history by acclaimed historian U Sai Aung Tun.


Published on 25 November 2008 by Silkworm Books, the South East Asian publishing specialist, History of the Shan State: From Its Origins to 1962 by Sai Aung Tun is hot off the presses and ready to impress (and stir up debate) on this latest attempt to package the history of the Shan State and its people.
Sai Aung Tun, a noted Professor of History and International Relations at colleges throughout Burma/Myanmar as well as a member of the Myanmar Historical Commission, has published widely on the Shan and the Shan State, though only a few of his works are available in English and online; read his article on Tai Ethnic Migration for "Dynamics of Ethnic Cultures Across National Boundaries in Southwestern China and Mainland Southeast Asia: Relations, Societies, and Languages" edited Hayashi Yukio (Kyoto University's CSEAS) and other works (such as Tun's National Library of Australia profile page here) for some insight.

At the moment, Sai Aung Tun has taken on the task of trying to unravel, understand and express the history of the Shan State until the events of 1962 - the period in modern Shan history. While it is unclear (I haven't been able to get my hands on a copy yet) whether or not his politics, affiliations and supervisors will colour this historical text, I sincerely hope that this, as a native Shan and with unlimited access, Sai Aung Tun had endeavoured to create a brilliant and insightful work for Shan enthusiasts worldwide to devour and debate for some time to come.

For now, best of luck getting your hands on a copy - either through Amazon, other sellers or your local (and well stocked) library - and leave your comments (good and not-so-good) at will. I look forward to hearing what our enlightened community has to say.

Gyan cha tha ba seh.

Naw Liang

13 November 2008

*SPECIAL*
Lecture on Ordination in Shan Buddhism
12 November 2008

at The School of Oriental and African Studies (SOAS)
London, United Kingdom
by Naw Liang
in Helsinki, Finland
(with details courtesy of Jotika Khur-yearn)

Mai soong kha!
Another short (and sadly out-of-date) post from me. However, despite my tardiness, this unique lecture and its content - both provided by Jotika Khur-yearn (SOAS) - is a must posting for All about Shan Studies. Jotika is a key figure in the Shan community in London as well as the
Principal Library Assistant for Southeast Asian Section at SOAS' world famous library and an up-and-coming academic. He has produced two acclaimed works on Shan manuscripts (see them here), including an article entitled "Shan Manuscript Collections outside the Shan State: Reservation and Cataloguing" (see here). Furthermore, he is a keen Shan promoter and was a central figure in the organising of the inaugural Conference on Shan Buddhism and Culture (see my posting here), an event that has spurned on a series of other Shan gatherings worldwide. We are the richer for having him.

For now, the following is the agenda for a lecture that Khur-yearn gave at SOAS this week. Enjoy...

A Lecture on Ordination in Shan Buddhism

SOAS, University of London (12 November 2008)

Lecturer: Jotika Khur-yearn (jk53@soas.ac.uk)

Topics for discussion:

  • The term ‘Shan’ - related terms: Siam, Tai, Dai, Thai, Lao
  • Shan regions – Shan State (Burma), Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai, Maehongson (Northern Thailand), Sipsongpanna (Southern China), Assam (India)
  • Shan Buddhism - Theravada
  • Ordination in Buddhism - Theravada
  • Ordination in Shan Buddhism – ‘Sang Long’, tradition, self-transformation, identity and tourism.
Reading list:
  1. Crosby, Kate: ‘Only if you let go of that Tree: Ordination without Parental Consent according to Theravada Vinaya.’ in Buddhist Studies Review, 2005.
  2. Eberhardt, N. J.: Imagining the course of life : self-transformation in a Shan Buddhist community. Honolulu : University of Hawaii Press, 2006. pp. 124-146.
  3. Swearer, Donald K.: The Buddhist World of Southeast Asia. Albany : State University of New York Press, 1995. pp. 46-52.
  4. Wondertime Magazine, May 2008. pp. 34.

Further reading:

  1. Dickson, J. F.: Ordination in Theravada Buddhism : an early account. Kandy, Ceylon : Buddhist Publication Society, 1963.
  2. Rittenberg, William: Buad Naag : the structure and performance of a Thai Buddhist ordination ceremony. Thesis--University of California, Los Angeles, 1977.
Web links:
  1. http://www.taiculture.org/traditional/poi_sanglong.html
  2. http://www.thailand.com/travel/festival/festivals_maehongson_poisanglong.htm
  3. http://www.chiangmai-chiangrai.com/poi-sang-long-festival-2007.html

Suggested essay topics:

  1. The mess and the significance of the Shan ordination festival
  2. Poi Sang Long: a three-day experience as a prince in Shan Buddhist community
  3. A comparative study of ordination ceremonies in Theravada Buddhism
------------------
That is all for now. Mai soong kha and
gyan ma chan tha ba seh.

Naw Liang

06 November 2008

A little political: Chinese New Year versus Shan National Day
by Naw Liang
London, UK and Helsinki, Finland.

Mai soong kha!

I might be cheating a bit with this mini-post, but timeliness is most important feature here.


So, possible guilty feelings of plagiarism aside, this post has come about due to the mounting news and excitement for the upcoming 2103 Shan New Year (28 November 2009). The buzz has reminded me of a news article I picked up last year by Saw Yan Naing about another Shan holiday - Shan National (or State) Day. The following is a short summary and minor expansion of the original, which can be read here.

Certain Shan holidays under scrutiny
While Shan National Day (2009 date unknown) and Chinese New Year (26 January 2009) won't fall on the same day as they did last year, their convergence on 7 February 2008 helped emphasise internal policies and scrutiny against the Shan people, their culture and festivities in Shan State and throughout Burma/Myanmar. The stark contrast between rapturous celebrations held by Burma's growing Chinese community throughout the country, including Shan State capital Taunggyi, and a blanket ban, in place since 2001, on festivities around Shan National Day would have been impossible to miss. The additional imbalance between banning Shan National Day and allowing Shan New Year celebrations in December in Shan State further obfuscates the issue.

Although I lack firsthand knowledge of the ban, it was aptly described/confirmed by Saw Yan Naing last year, who wrote that the Shan had been '...officially barred from publicly marking the event after a regime [sic] edict banned the festival...in 2001, apparently because it was worried about growing political awareness among the Shan." Furthermore, a witness added weight to these claims, stating that "no celebration of the Shan festival was being held there [and that] many Chinese residents were gathering to celebrate Chinese New Year."

Yet, despite increased press in 2008, I (like many others) know that this discrimination is not of character. And, despite the strong internal history of this Shan event, which commemorates the adoption of a Shan national flag and anthem on 7 February 1947, official bans continue this year and into the foreseeable future. Such is life for ethnic minorities in Burma/Myanmar.

But, bans only apply to those who follow them, and the Shan have continued, in the face of official warnings, to hold events throughout Shan State and Burma/Myanmar. As an example, some events, though smaller and more subdued, were held throughout Burma/Myanmar in 2008, including:

The Shan State was the venue small local gatherings as well as more politicised events, such as those held by the Shan State Army (South) at their headquarters in Loi Taileng; and

Yangon
was also witness to more subdued festivities, including the offering of alms to monks at a Shan monastery in Yangon's Mayangone Township as well as dance and music performances by famous Shan performers, including the now deceased Sai Htee Saing. Event organiser Nang Boe Seng added that the event, more a commemoration than a celebration, aimed to help the "...Shan people [remember their] culture, tradition and religious customs. We also want the young generation to love and uphold our culture.”

Bigger abroad isn't always the best
These Burma-based events, with the continuing determination of local promoters and supporters, are encouraging to say the least. But it is the fact that the majority of Shan National/State Day celebrations take place overseas (predominately in Yunnan (China) and Chiang Mai and Mae Hong Son (Northern Thailand) and away from the Shan State that takes centre stage, reviving feelings of disappointment and demoralisation. These feelings are much harder to recall.

Let's hope that, some day soon, Shan National/State Day can, along with a myriad of Shan celebrations, be cheered where they ought to be - at home in Shan State.

And, although it might be jumping the gun a bit, mai soong pii mai tai.

Naw Liang.

05 November 2008

The 2008 International Burma Studies Conference
at Northern Illinois University (USA) from 3-5 October 2008
by Naw Liang (London, UK)

Mai soong kha. Once again, I am playing catch-up. So, rather than another sentence or two of apologies, let's get straight into it. Enjoy.

Northern Illinois University's Burma Studies Center held its Eighth International Burma Studies Conference in early October, a momentous occasion for Burma and Burma-related academia worldwide. NIU was handpicked in 1986 by the Burma Studies Group of the Association for Asian Studies to be the US' national centre for scholarly work on Burma, and it has impressed ever since. With a stunning faculty and world-renowned collection of Burmese materials, the interrelationship that has developed between the Burma Studies Group and NIU is second to none.

This year's conference has, like previous years, exceeded the scope and depth of expertise from Burma-specific and Burma-related experts from a range of disciplines, including art history, linguistics, anthropology and religious studies to name, but a few. A quick view of this year's programme (see link here) reveals the rapid growth in investigation and research brought about by keen academia and interested parties worldwide; it is now so big that it is impossible to take it all in. This is a problem that, at least from All about Shan Studies' perspective, we are happy to have to deal with. Of particular interest to me and Shan Studies readers is the increasing expansion of 'Burma Studies' into Burma's ethnic minorities, especially the Shan. Below is a brief list of presentation abstracts made at the conference that were distinctly Shan:

A BOOK FOR THE DEAD: A SHAN BUDDHIST TRADITION BEING A MEANS FOR THE PRESERVATION OF THEIR CULTURAL IDENTITY by Jotika Khur-Yearn
BEING SHAN ON THE THAI SIDE OF THE BORDER: CONTINUITIES AND TRANSFORMATIONS IN SHAN CULTURE AND IDENTITY IN MAEHONGSON, THAILAND by Nicola Tannenbaum
WHAT DOES IT MEAN TO BE SHAN? SHIFTING ETHNIC MARKERS FOR SHAN IN NORTHERN THAILAND by Nancy Eberhardt
PORT POLITIES IN THE HILLS: SHAN STATES AND TRADE IN THE CHINA-BURMA (MYANMAR) BORDER REGION by Chit Hlaing (F.K. Lehman)
These name but a few of the intriguing and insightful papers presented at the conference. It is my hope that a volume will be in publication soon.

So, despite missing the conference outright, it is great to see that research and consideration for Burma and Shan Studies is not only continuing, but steadily growing. This is very encouraging.

Gyan cha tha ba seh.

Naw Liang

25 October 2008

Shan New Year Songs Part IV: Khur Sor Lai
by Naw Liang (with help from PiJo)

Season's greetings. Or maybe that is a bit early?
The following post is Part IV in All about Shan Studies' look at Shan New Year's songs, one of the expanding array of online content available on Shan New Year. I hope to include sound clips with each song soon, but, for now, please enjoy the lyrics below.

Yin lii nam nam
to Pi Jo and many others, particularly friends from the SCA_UK, for sending these through to me. And, as always, comments and suggestions are welcome.

For now, enjoy practicing Khur Sor Lai



==================

On a tangential aside, I have stumbled upon another Shan group, this time from Singapore, who have astutely produced an excellent and amply named Shan New Year website. The site includes, amongst other new year things, photos of past years and an interview with Sai Htee Saing. Following the link above for details.

The Singapore group is, I am certain, only one of many groups worldwide holding Shan New Year celebrations. As a wide request, I would appreciate any links to other groups, particularly in Northern Thailand and, if possible, Shan State, that readers are aware of so that I might include there details in future postings. Additionally, I plan to arrange a database of Shan groups worldwide in the near future - one of many projects I have in the works for All about Shan Studies - and these links will be invaluable additions to such work.

Yin lii nam nam for your help in advance.

Naw Liang

20 October 2008

Roads to Eastern Shan State
A preview of posts-to-come
by Nicholas Farrelly (New Mandala)
Summary by Naw Liang

Mai soong kha everyone!
Noticeably shorter than previous posts, the following has been included to serve one key purpose: to introduce everyone to New Mandala, an excellent academically-focused and easily accessible online South East Asia information and discussion source. It is administered by major contributors Andrew Walker, a well-known anthropologist at ANU (see profile and publications and his groundbreaking work Legend of the Golden Boat), and up-and-coming SE Asian development expert Nicholas Farrelly (see profile (with Andrew Walker). These two prolific and insightful thinkers are joined by a growing list of expert South East Asia researchers and watchers worldwide. I have always found it a great place for information and debate on current and future research into South East Asia, including a growing number of Shan-focused pieces. That, and they have a fantastic dtabase of back-dated work. I urge each and everyone of you to check it out when time permits.

You won't be disappointed.

For now, the above link - in the headline - is a precursor to a longer article I am working on following my visit to Eastern Shan State, Wa State and Yunnan in June/July of this year. Although our topics are only slightly overlapping - road conditions in Eastern Shan State - and the difference in content considerable, this short article has great photos and expert and thought provoking comments.

That said, our content is only so accurate. I am certain that I (and any commenter to the New Mandala post) am not the most recent or widely travelled visitors to this area, and I hope that these posts will encouraged others to share their Shan State and beyond travel tales here.
Write in and tell us your stories. We can all benefit from these experiences.

For now, enjoy the New Mandala post by Nicholas Farrelly, and keep your eyes open for my in-depth article to follow soon.

Jom lii kha,

Naw Liang

09 October 2008

The ‘First International’ Conference on Shan Studies 15-18 October 2009
Chulalongkorn University
Bangkok, Thailand
By Naw Liang
(with SCA-UK, BNI Online, S.H.A.N. and others' assistance)

Attention: My apologies for the 'boring layout' of this post. There have been some formatting problems with Blogger.com, particularly transferring completed posts from MS Word, and, as a result, this post could not be produced to my usual standards. I am working to correct the problem; your patience is appreciated.


Well, it is almost exactly year-to-the-day of my previous post, discussing the inaugural Shan Conference on Buddhism and Culture held at SOAS in London on 8-9 December 2007, that I am happy to announce the coming of another conference on Shan Studies. Although I am unsure if it can honestly and correctly be titled ‘the first’ of its kind (the SOAS event was international, covering a range of professional Shan cultural research and attended by an impressive number of renowned Shan scholars), the purpose of this blog is not to critique the minute, but to promote Shan Studies on the whole.

That said, I am excited to announce that Thailand's prestigious Chulalongkorn University, its Institutes of Asian Studies (IAS) and Thai Studies, in conjunction with the Euro-Burma Office, are organising its First International Conference on Shan Studies (ICSS) to be held in Bangkok from 15-18 October 2009.


Background
The International Conference on Shan Studies is the fourth in a series of academic events by Chulalongkorn University’s Institute of Asian Studies focus on ethnic minorities in Burma: the Arakan History Workshop (2005) (see a paper presented here), the Rohingya Consultation (2006) (view papers here)and the Mon History Conference (2007) (see news of post-conference publication here). Each event built significant support, both within the respective communities and throughout their worldwide academic networks, helping to promote greater exposure and knowledge sharing. Great things are also expected for the Shan.

So far, high hopes have brought promising results. The conference already has the support of Thailand’s considerable Shan community: two of Thailand’s largest Shan community groups are co-managing the event, namely the Chiangmai-based Shan Literature and Culture Society, which is led by Saengmuang Mangkorn (youngest son of the late Shan resistance leader Sao Noi (1927-96), while Bangkok’s significant Shan community will be represented by General Phon Wanakamon, a retired Thai general of Shan origin, who leads their group.

Furthermore, the conference has been a buzzword amongst Shan internet and other circles for nearly a year, even before it was officially announced. Things bode well for mid-October.

The event: details
The International Conference on Shan Studies (ICSS) seeks to bring Shan scholars from around the world to Bangkok from 15-18 October to discuss a range of issues, while sharing their extensive knowledge and discoveries. Although academic panels are set to take centre stage, the key element of the conference is to promote cooperation amongst Shan scholars, researchers, enthusiasts and, most of all, people to bring about better collaboration and understanding in the future. In addition to the academic discussions, attendees will be able to view performances (classical dance and orchestral) as well as wander through significant exhibitions of Shan artefacts and artworks. Other events scheduled include a well-known historical short play Chao Ying Saenwi (Princess of Hsenwi) at the Chulalongkorn Auditorium.

Controversy: auspicious timing
There has been some controversy over the timing of the event. While the Shan community had originally suggested holding the conference during the Shan New Year (which would fall in November of 2009), the IAS has, instead, scheduled the event for October when classes are not in session. This seems a odd to me as, being a Shan event, wouldn’t it be auspicious (not to mention incredibly convenient) to hold the event during the annual celebration, thereby allowing most Shans in Bangkok (and nearby) to participate? "We have to find a way to deal with the congestion inside the campus first before we can come out with a definite date," Dr Sunait Chutintaranond, Director of the Institute of Asian Studies was quoted as saying.
Hmmm, I wonder.

Dear Scholar: A call for papers

The following information as received from an outside source. Apologies for any errors.

The organisers invite papers on all aspects of Shan Studies, including, anthropology, architecture, art history, environment, gender, history, literature, linguistics, music, performing arts, popular culture, religions and traditional medicine. Each contributor will have approximately 30 minutes for presentation. The languages to be used in the conference will be English and Thai.

A selection of the papers presented will be published in an edited volume within a year after the conference. The paper should be submitted by 1 September 2009. The paper should not exceed 10,000 words and it should include appropriate bibliography and citations.

Abstract submissions
An abstract of not more than 300 words (using 1” margins on all sides, 12pt font size and submitted as attachments in MS Word or pdf format) should be sent to the conference organisers by 28 February 2009. Abstracts can be sent via email to: shan.studies@yahoo.com or shanstudies@chula.ac.th. Key information - the title of the paper, the name(s) of the author(s), the affiliation of author(s) and contact details - must be included.

Upon receipt of any submissions and discussion, the conference organizers will decide which speakers will present at the event and contact the author(s) selected. Furthermore, all abstracts submitted in time will be published in an abstract booklet to be distributed during the conference. Finally, the conference organizers reserve the right to solicit papers, if necessary, from individuals who did not submit abstracts.

For abstract submissions, additional information or any inquiries, please contact:

Mrs. Charunee Lucktong
Institute of Asian Studies, Chulalongkorn University
7th Floor, Prachadhipok-Rambhai Barni Building,
Phyathai Road, Pathumwan, Bangkok 10330
THAILAND
Tel: +662 218 7463-4
Fax: +662 255 1124
Email: charunee.l@chula.ac.th

Mai soong kha everyone,

Naw Liang

12 September 2008

Shan New Year Songs Part III: Khat Jai Hai Mai Soong
by Naw Liang (with help from PiJo)


Mai soong kha everyone.
Here we are again - another Shan New Year is looming, and I thought it time to bulk up the All about Shan Studies song library with Khat Jai Nai Mai Soong. I must thank the SCA_UK and its members for passing the song lyrics on to me recently; they truly are an amazingly active and devouted group.

But, before we warm up our vocal chords and start practicing, a short seguay of a different kind.

While doing my usual evening research into all things Shan, I came across an interesting, albeit one year old, article published on the Pulitzer Centre on Crisis Reporting (see About the Centre here) about Shan rebels celebrating Shan New Year inside Burma/Myanmar. Although it delves into politics a bit too much for my liking (and for the purpose of this website), Jacob Baynham's (see the Asia-based author's web blog here) description of Shan New Year celebrations in Shan State are poignant.

Here is an excerpt from the article
'Burmese rebels celebrate Shan New Year', which was published on 27 December 2007:

"...The Shan army headquarters at Loi Tai Leng is the last place in Burma where the Shan New Year can be fully and openly celebrated, with the traditional songs, dances and displays of Shan martial arts. And so it is the biggest event of the year — a two-day affair steeped in rice whiskey, loud music and defiant displays of military strength.

Soldiers — recently paid their monthly salary of 200 baht ($6) for the first time in five months — splurge on alcohol and noodles in food stalls, and the air fills with the sour smoke of their cheroots. Outside, vendors sell khao tum nga, purple sticky rice pounded in a hollowed-out tree stump with roasted sesame seeds, a Shan New Year specialty.

Before a crowd of thousands, men and women perform dances in costumes of mythical Shan animals — a giant ram, a deer and two different birds — which first danced for the newly enlightened Buddha, according to legend. Young men with long knives perform the twirling Shan martial art, called Lai Tai. Boys and girls shuffle their feet in a choreographed blossoming of a cherry tree, set to the clash of cymbals and the beat of a 7-foot-long Shan drum..."

To read more, please visit the link in the title above. Additionally, a video taken during Shan New Year celebrations at Loi Tai Leng in 2102 can be seen here.

============

For now, let's return to our new year songs, this time the modern classic Khat Jai Nai Mai Soong. Enjoy...


Once again, yin lii nam nam for visiting.

Naw Liang

10 May 2008

Shan Tattoos – Insight into ink and body art (Part II)
By Naw Liang

(in London, UK)

Mai soong kha!
As promised, this is the second and final section of my limited research on Shan tattoos. And, as before, I would be grateful for any further insights and opinions on this fascinating and core act of Shan culture, both for study and general interest. Your suggestions and comments are appreciated.

Note: Much of the information provided here was found through public sources (academic articles, books and journals and internet research) with additional comments and corrections from events during field visits to eastern Shan State (Mong Yawn, Mongtoon and Mongkok) in 2003 and 2006.

Photo credit: The photo of the monk having his head tattooed (above) was originally published by Brent T. Madison in a February article of The Irrawaddy entitled 'Tattoo not Taboo' by David Paquette.

Shan tattoos: a recap
As mentioned in the March 2008 posting, tattoos are a crucial part of Shan culture, particularly for men, as they are known largely for their spiritual power – they are thought to bring the bearer prosperity; conquer evil spirits; extend one’s life; and even protect against gunshots, knives and other weapons. A tattoo in these circumstances and with this mindset is much more than body art: it is a life force.

The ‘power’ that emanates from Shan tattoos is believed to come from a variety of sources, including the tattoo image; the method by which the tattoo is produced; the tattooist (often called spirit doctor) and the spell that he delivers by blowing on the tattoo and the Shan characters or script, which many believe cannot be read by spirits. However, even during such a spiritually-charged event, a fundamental measurement of the tattoo’s power is the money invested, with the most expensive and difficult tattoos always bringing greater honour, power, position, protection and wisdom.

The professional - the tattooist
The tattooist (or spirit doctor)* was traditionally, though less so in modern times, a travelling herbal medicine man who visited outlying villages during the cool season, usually lodging at monasteries. Spirit doctors chose this time for tattooing especially: the cool season, while traditionally a down-time with little work for the men, providing the ideal opportunity for spiritual pursuits, including tattoos. Furthermore, the cool season was often a time for reflection by many villagers with the temple at the heart of this activity.

* I used tattooist and spirit doctor interchangeably throughout this article.

The place - the mandat**
Although variations exist between the type of structure, the place (within the local Buddhist temple or monastery grounds) where men were tattooed was always the same: a mandat (special structure only erected in the temple grounds) would be set up in an auspicious corner of the monastery, followed by the recitation of sutras and a blessing of the ground with sacred water. The mandat, despite style and size, always follow the same basic structure and are built in the same regimented way. Following the site selection and ritual blessing, the spirit doctor and any assistants would lay down a thick layer of clean and well-watered sand before erecting the cloth roof (which is always fringed with illustrations of the eight planets) and walls, which are constructed from blankets and fenced off by slats of woven bamboo. Next, the fresh and watered sand floor would be covered with banana leaves, mostly to produce a pleasant aroma, before being covered with a blanket. The mandat is then decorated with important articles, including: an image of the Buddha; a range of different pots of ink; a surgery-like layout of tattooing needles; any number of vases with fresh flowers; and, finally, a bowl of sandal wood paste. One of the most interesting aspects of the construction of the mandat is a rope, which is tied inside the structure to act as a clothesline for the tattooed man’s waistcloth: this rope is thought to be made traditionally by eight girls who weave threads together to produce the rope. Although unable to find out more, this is an interesting concept as it would represent the only truly female aspect in the entire tattooing process. Structurally, the mandat had a unique dual exit layout, which was central to the process: an exit on the right was solely for those wanting small tattoos, while the exit on the left was for those seeking fuller, more serious designs.

**I do not remember and cannot find whether or not this is a Burmese, Thai or Shan (Tai Yai) word, though I am lead to believe that it is used interchangeably by Shan and Thai. Any outside expertise in this matter would be appreciated.

The tool – the needle

The traditional tattooing needle† has three interlocking parts: the head (the heaviest part) that usually resembles a nat (Burmese: spirit) or sacred animal; the middle section (hollow and holding the black or red ink) that makes up the largest part of the tool; and the tip (the ‘needle’ – narrow at both ends and flared in the middle), which may vary in size, but is usually the smallest component of the tool. When completely assembled, the entire needle, which is traditionally made from bronze but can be steel, aluminium or even bamboo (except for the needle), average lengths of 30-37cm (12-15 inches). The tool being used in the photos (right) is longer than most, but not exceedingly. During fieldwork, various sizes were visible, the shortest approximately 25cm (10 inches) and the longest nearing 60cm (24 inches). Although my research is incomplete, discussions with some spirit doctors revealed that longer needles allowed for better control and, as a result, more intricate tattoos.
†I use ‘needle’, though tool or implement might be a better description as the actual needle makes up only the tip of the implement.

The medium – the ink
The ink∫ is made from the soot of crude, peanut or sesame oil and lard that is collected from lamps and mixed with dried fish gall bladder before being tied up in a cloth to ‘ferment’. The soot is then mixed with a handful of leaves of boiled, bitter gourd in a large pot and boiled again. Next, the soot is removed and dried. In the final stage and just before use, the dried soot is mixed with boiled water or pure oil to form a thick paste. The ink is now ready for use, though some minor alterations, including mixing in limejuice and special herbs, can also be undertaken before the ink is applied in the tattooing process.
∫Traditionally, black ink was the only colour used for tattooing. Although my information is conflicting, the vast majority of tattoos are still produced in black ink only. However, I have heard that tattoos are increasingly using two colours: black ink, which is used for astrological drawings, red ink, which is used for religious purposes. If a red tattoo or red ink is selected, the spirit doctors will offer the nat coconuts, bananas and rice.

The task – tattooing
Now, the recipient of the tattoo enters the mandat (via the appropriate door), meets the spirit doctor and selects a tattoo. Although some friends and family are allowed to gather nearby to listen to the process, no one‡ is allowed into the mandat to watch, however, it is common for a young assistant to work with the spirit doctor, ferrying messages back and forth about the process’ progress to family and friends
‡ The only ones allowed to witness the tattooing were four close friends selected to hold the recipient of the tattoo down if required.

There is a hierarchy to the tattooing process that resembles the intent (minor or serious) of those wanting to be tattooed. Anyone who enters the mandat from the right entrance is usually tattooed by the lead tattooist initially (he will complete the main sections and outlines only), while the remainder (filling in or secondary design) will be completed by his understudy or understudies. It is commonplace for the lead spirit doctor to concentrate his efforts on clientele who entered from the left – those with serious tattoo requests – who require more detailed work and the highest skills.

Before the actual tattooing begins, the recipient of the tattoo prays to Buddha and promises to uphold the Five Precepts – not to kill, steal, lie, drink intoxicants or commit adultery. For serious clients, banana leaves are often spread on expensive silk blankets as the head tattooist chants prayers. Lastly, after the prayers and blessings are completed, the recipient of the tattoo must remain silent throughout a thorough procedure – he must emanate a composed and dignified aura – while he is stripped of his clothes (to be hung on the rope) and is subjected to a thorough leprosy and skin disorders examination. If no medical problems exist, the tattooing then commences.

Initially, the selected designs are marked on the skin with design blocks that have been cut and coated with sooty ink to create templates. Next, the outlines of the tattoo are etched into the skin, with leaves crushed and rubbed into the cuts afterwards, making the black ink turn a greenish black hue, which is considered more beautiful that pure black. If a traditional Shan waist-to-knee tattoo was selected, the spirit doctor would start at the waist, work around it, before proceeding downwards, tattooing one thigh at a time. Depending on the skill of the tattooist, one thigh, from waist to knee, would usually take about five hours; the tattooing starting at dawn to avoid the afternoon heat. The second thigh would not be done until later, often after consulting the recipient, though it is rare for anyone to have both thigh tattoos completed in less than a week. After the new tattoos were completed, assistants would wash the tattooed area with boiled water and herbs, to be repeated everyday by the tattooed person and/or family members, to ward off infection and aid healing. When everything was completed, the newly tattooed person would leave the hut and clap three times, a traditional Shan (and Burmese) display of manliness.

For more information, please visit the Sure Hope site (here) on Shan and animism or two independent traveller sites - Cameron in Sea or NineMSN.

Once again, thank you for visiting and mai soong kha.

Naw Liang

10 March 2008

The original Shan pop star - Sai Htee Saing
by Naw Liang

(
London, United Kingdom)

It is with a heavy heart that I write this. Entirely out of character, I have managed to get two posts up online in two days, though the impetus for the second post - the sad passing of famous Shan musician Sai Htee Saing - is a sad reason for such an accomplishment. We already miss him.

Sai Htee Saing: Background
Born in 1950 in Lin Khae in southern
Shan State, Sai Htee Saing was the treasured singer (both in Shan and Burmese) of his time. The man who co-founded The Wild Ones, Sai Htee Saing died early in the early morning on 10 March at Rangoon General Hospital in Yangon, Burma/Myanmar. He was 58 years of age. Details of his passing were not published, but it was known that he had been ill for some time.

Sai Htee Saing had always been musical, but it was not until his debut in 1969 on Burma Broadcasting Service (now Myanmar Television and Radio Department) that his songs, written
in his native Shan language, caught the attention of a nation.

Starting out in the 1970's: The Wild Ones and promoting Shan pop music
He was born at the perfect time - the late 1970s - when originally-written pop music was soaring in popularity throughout
Burma and in popular Burmese culture. And it was during this time that The Wild Ones, a groundbreaking Burmese/Shan pop band established by Sai Htee Saing and composer/close friend Sai Kham Lait, shot to stardom. Regarded as modern Burmese pop music trailblazers in a time dominated by the dictator General Ne Win and his absurd "Burmese way to Socialism", The Wild Ones offered an invaluable outlet for creativ
e young musicians and an unparelled escape for young, inquisitive and active Burmese and Shan. Although there were tough times to be bucking the system, The Wild Ones provided a lifeline that many will not forget.

For the Shan in particular, Sai Htee Saing's beautiful and intricately craft lyrics - clever enough to avoid the heavy censorship that continues today - helped educate the Burmese about the Shan, their language, culture and, most importantly, situation. Common Shan themes - such as love, daily life and its problems in the Shan State and even the civil war - routinely appeared in his songs. However, insights into Shan life (at least Shan life as Sai Htee Saing saw it) were not the only achievements of his prolific work: Sai Htee Saing's pioneering, particularly as a Shan, helped and helps Burmese and many other ethnic minority musicians gain access to and develop a place in the Burmese music scene.

Controversy
Although I don't wish to dwell on it, Sai Htee Saing's less br
illiant hour came with his apparent support of the junta (the SLORC and, more recently, the SPDC) in his later years, particularly following the events of 1988 (otherwise known as 8-8-88). The choice was costly: although he gained support from the military junta, he lost a considerable amount of his following. Pictures arm-im-arm with dictators are often not the best way to make friends with the masses, especially when songs ghost written by others and forgetting one's past by ignoring blossoming artists.

Incredible influence, unforgettable impact
Yet, Sai Htee Saing's classic songs and prolific production (see some of his albums here) never lost their support, both in Burma/Myanmar and abroad, with sales and appearances, even overseas, keeping him busy. I was lucky enough to meet him in December 2007 when he
attended the first ever Conference on Shan Buddhism and Culture at the School of Oriental and African Studies (SOAS) in London, UK (see the link for videos of his performance). Although we did not talk for long, he was shy, but friendly, eager to hear about mine and other Shan enthusiasts interests in his people and culture. His concert on the evening of the first day of the conference, to celebrate the 2102 Shan New Year, was a hit with everyone; I heard about it for weeks afterwards. Sadly, it was also the last performance he ever made.

In the end and despite some choices he made, Sai Htee Saing will always be remembered as the first Shan pop star, and I am certain that I will continue to hear his classics on well-listened-to, crackling cassette tape decks and car stereos during my journeys in the
Shan State for years to come.

Thank you for the music Sai Htee Saing.
Mai soong kha for everything.

Colin 'Naw Liang' Savage

P.S. The last photo (of Sai Htee Saing's funeral in Yangon) is courtesy of a Shan Cultural Association of the UK (SCA_UK) friend. Mai soong kha.

09 March 2008

Shan Tattoos: Insights into ink and body art (Part I)
By Naw Liang

(in London, UK and Bonn, Germany)

After another explainable hiatus, I have returned for an overdue entry on the Shan, their culture, history, language and more. But, before dipping into the ink, it is worth reminding everyone that opinions and comments are greatly valued. A recent exchange that arouse from the December posting on “The Shan: Engineering perspectives on and solutions for a 'lost' culture” was one of the most in-depth and thought-provoking discussions that has appeared on All about Shan Studies to date – very inspiring. It is my honest hope that similar exchanges will occur in the future, not only due to my somewhat challenging comments, but also due to expanding access to and interest in Shan issues from Shan and non-Shan enthusiasts and scholars worldwide. I look forward to more of these discussions in the years to come.


Photo credit
: The smoky tattoo photo (above) was originally published by Brent T. Madison in a February article of The Irrawaddy entitled 'Tattoo not Taboo' by David Paquette.

Old sayings speak volumes
In a recent internet article, the old Burmese proverb: “Getting married, building a pagoda and getting a tattoo are the three undertakings that can only be altered afterwards with great difficulty” speaks volumes, not only in Burmese culture, but many Burma-based ethnic minorities as well. Although difficult to apply directly (or, more diligently, implement into daily life, especially in London), the wisdom is inherent, especially if superimposed on modern (the West’s) partner-not-spouse, rent-to-own yet tattoo-happy society. These societal standards of (modern?) Burmese, Shan and other ethnic minorities speak volumes in helping to understand cultural tenets (however historical) as well as distinct societal shifts; it may even, in a very loose and distant way, be a means to compare dissimilar societies, as these societal standards, when tweaked, are not so different from our own historical constructs. Yes, the times may be a-changing, but sayings such as these help provide a clear window to the past. At the very least, they illustrate the generalities, the similarities that span world cultures.

But I am getting off topic while being too general. Double whammy.

It is time to get back on track.

Shan tattoos: a brief introduction
Now, with the statement above firmly in mind, this post will discuss one of the three elements, a cultural act that I have been interested in for some time, both as a researcher and as a promoter/owner: tattoos.

Tattoos (visible, invisible, cartoon, artistic, sentimental, tribal, ethnic, all or none) have skyrocketed in popularity over the last few decades, and they are now a fixture in the public eye through pop culture (mostly music and fashion) and peer promotion. Interstingly, the tattoo boom is not unique to the usual, rebellious or merely fashion-conscious, peer-pressured youth culture in London, New York or Los Angeles (where tattoos may be called tattoos, tats, ink or body art), in Tokyo (called 入墨 or irezumi), in Beijing (纹身 or wénshēn) or elsewhere, but they are starting to show up in growing numbers of young and not-so-young people in more (perceived) conservative societies worldwide, including India, the Middle East and, most pertinent to this site, Burma and the Shan State. Tattoos are sprouting up and gracing places and people like never before. These are interesting body art times.

However, despite the spread of tattooing and the apparent lax reaction to its growth in more conservative locales, Burma and the Shan State have bucked this blanket acceptance of tattoos , particularly of celebrities, musicians and other popular figures, by mounted a pseudo crackdown recently; most vividly, the arrest of a popular musician G-Tone in November 2007, illustrates the official attitude to ink. Although a shame, it iis more distubringly a clear cultural contradiction. After all, tattoos have a long (albeit confusing) history in South East Asia, particularly in the Shan State.

Despite their confusing significance, tattoos can symbolise either an evil deed (such as incarceration) or the pursuit of enlightenment through the sangha (such as joining monkhood). However, Shan tattoos were and (largely) remain reserved to symbolise a rite of passage for boys or spiritual or religious vigour of men, marking a man’s merits and beliefs. It is the rite of passage and the spiritual conviction types of tattoos that I will discuss in this post, while further discussion on prison and gang tattoos and branding in South East Asia will be discussed at a later date.

Regardless of their moralistic value (largely applied by the individual), the roots behind tattooing are spiritual, such as for animist superstitions, based on a belief that ink and body art can protect the body from evil (of course, this ignores the practice of tattoos symbolising previous evil acts. More on that concept/contradiction later).

This association between ink and body art belief deeply links fundamental Buddhist teachings with three core planes of ancient tribal tattooing – these are pain, permanence and the blood (life force) – which mimic a monk’s self-deprivation, devotion and discipline, the powerful three-pronged attack that guides Buddhists in their quest for enlightenment. Additionally, much more than the fashion accessory that some tattoos have become in assorted societies worldwide, tattoos, in this sense, depart from art and gravitate to symbolise an act by dedicated followers to truly bond with their gods, obtain magical powers and, through deep mediation, achieve inner peace.

[Note: I am now officially out of my depth in terms of a comparison between Buddhism and animist tenets and tattoos. Any further clarification or analysis of this linkage would be greatly appreciated. Mai soong kha.]

Shan tattoos: a brief history and explanation
Without digging up the complete history of tattoos – did they originate in Polynesia or ancient China or elsewhere? - ), it is the Shan who are credited with not only importing, but mastering the practice of tattooing in Burma, producing tattoos to ward off evil spirits (animistic), those that recognised devotion to Buddhism (spiritual) or those that symbolise a boy’s journey into manhood.

Of these three types, Shan tattoos (to date) have predominately been used to immortalise a rite of passage for a boy as he becomes a man; they are signs of maturity and virility. The act involved young Shan men who were (and, to a lesser extent, still are) tattooed from the waist to knees by the village medicine man. The act took several weeks and was quite painful: indigo ink or vermillion would be injected under the skin by using a long, often heavy skewer to inscript the tattoo(s), which would be repeated over the period of a few weeks, eventually producing (after several sessions and regular rubbing) a black, then bluish tattoo. The designs mainly consist of animals, the Zodiac and almost invariably include geometric Buddhist patterns (circles, dials, triangles and other). Although often given opium to numb the pain, boys would suffer from the sessions for hours on end, only to have further painful massage sessions to help the ink set. The process was excruciating and lengthy, and it carried a long list of risks, from infections to, in the worst cases, death.

The tattoos: designs and their meanings
A significant aspect of Shan tattoos (and others throughout South East Asia) is the influence of Buddhism on designs and their placement. When choosing a tattoo and where to inscribe it, the village medicine man divides the body into twelve parts, though eight of these predominate: the back, the head and the arms (where illustrations of gods, figures and other sacred mantras, usually in Shan script, are tattooed); and the ears, throat and shoulders (where animals and creatures are reproduced). Additionally, tattoos can be strategically placed, such as those on the chest (popular for soldiers as this is seen as a talisman to protect against bullets) or on other areas in need of protection, such as ankles (to protect against snake bites). Finally, specific designs are often used to symbolise sexual power or stamina (geckos and peacocks); I will let your imagination determine where these might be placed.

[Note: Other methods are also used by the Shan as methods to ward off bad luck or to bring protection. One significant act entails inserting silver or gold discs under the skin to act as a charm, often for those set to go into battle. There is little information available online on this practice, and any suggestions or insights would be appreciated.]

A conclusion of sorts
That is all I have to share at the moment; more study and thought is definitely required. However and as always, I hope that this post, peppered with my incomplete conclusions and shaky linkages, will encourage others to question and challengeg me, nurturing thought, revision and more. Mai soong kha advance.

For now, please see the following links with more in-depth study on Shan tattoos:

Tattoos: Invulnerability and Power in Shan Cosmology by Dr. Nicola Tannenbaum, the only academic article focused on Shan tattooing to date; or More esoterically, please check out Dr. Tannenbaum’s book “Who Can Compete Against the World: Power-Protection and Buddhism in Shan Worldview” which also discusses Shan tattoos, though in a more specific, worldview Buddhist context.

Once again, thanking you for reading and I look forward to your comments.

Mai soong kha,

Colin 'Naw Liang' Savage