All about Shan Studies

Mai soong kha
Welcome to an introductory reference and networking site for studies into the Shan and Shan State. It is my hope that Shan scholars and individuals, foreign academics, independent researchers and other enthusiasts will meet here to share, discuss and present their insights. Any suggestions and comments are welcome. Thank you for visiting.

20 December 2007

The Shan: Engineering perspectives on and solutions for a 'lost' culture
by Naw Liang

(in London, UK and Kyoto, Japan)

Mai soong kha!
As promised in the previous post, I’ve come up with one more topic for discussion prior to the extended end-of-year holidays. This is something that I have been pondering for some time, to the extent that I believe that further, more in-depth research is essential. For now, this is a taster and any comments and opinions – for or against – are appreciated. Additionally, all of the links that I have included were discovered in a five-minute research test to see how easy it was (and how much) Shan/Tai Yai content is currently available on the internet. Any further links are also appreciated.

Solving a cultural identity crisis: A Shan engineer attempts an answer
During the 2007 Conference on Shan Buddhism and Culture held in early December in London, attendees were treated to a unique presentation by a Shan engineer immigrant from Canada on ‘solving’ modern Shan identity problems and ‘constructing’ a contemporary Shan culture. Sao Khun-Hti Laikha presented his paper entitled 'Being an Urban Tai/Shan in the 21st Century: Challenges and Solutions' in a brief and interesting manner - as an engingeer and not an academic, he challenged some common social science thoughts and theories on ethinic identity and identity retention, especially when abroad for significant periods.

Although some comments were questionable – an apparent lack (Historically? Current? Both?) of alluring Shan music and performance that (in)directly nudged elite Shans towards Burmese artforms; and a skewed and, therefore, not anthropological insinuation that higher education (largely Western-based) and professions (Western in scope) equalled a better life – and others unnecessary and unappreciated (especially those about boring Canada - the speaker's adopted country), I do wholeheartedly commend the speaker’s genuine enthusiasm and brave theoretical attempt (engineering to ‘solve’ social science conundrums) to discuss an issue that was obviously very close to his heart. My hope is that he will, as promised, be open to comments and criticism and learn from his attempt before even attempting the next step.

However, my questions and somewhat stern comments aside, I was deeply puzzled by a central theme that flowed through the presentation: the speaker’s belief, however misguided and misinformed, that an absence of Shan cultural (music, video, literature, images) existed and remains. Furthermore, his faulty research concluded in, I believe, a truly incorrect realisation that Shan culture as he (and an implied we) knew and know it has already been destroyed.

Although I may be emphasising for effect here, the general concept - a lack of Shan cultural content - is something that I cannot agree with.

For starters, a simple online library (see Shan and Tai Yai), bookstore or general internet search turns up endless resources of Shan ‘culture’ available today – from historical texts to VCD music videos and language to art worldwide. More bluntly than these offerings, there is no more concrete example than this, albeit, fledgling website. The amount of information – from pre-19th century to the present – is staggering and often results in me having to pick and choose what to (and not to) include on a nearly daily basis. I do agree that the information comes in many forms – from personal websites in a growing number of languages to obscure information cloaked in other guises – but that is the challenge for the researcher and not a sign of an inherent lack (or absence) of material. Furthermore, a closing remark – the engineer joked that, without professionals like himself, infrastructures to share information, including those key to Shan cultural survival, would not be possible – helped solidify my disbelief and growing annoyance with his ‘scientific theory’. Turned around, why had the engineers even considered such structures if the content to be transported was lacking? More telling, if, as he hypothesised, Shan cultural materials were lacking (or, indeed, absent), where and how had I (and many others) managed to discover the materials here. Moreover, how were others, including the growing number of Shan academics and researchers, doing it as well? Although he deserves an ‘A’ for effort and courage, his preliminary research and strength of sources was sorely lacking. Broad sweeping generalisations and 'My father said' comments do little to establish clout in the academic world. A tough lesson that I have learned and continue to experience.

Conclusion: what have we learned?
In the end, what have we learned from this presentation and the speaker’s sentiments? First, that, despite confused looks and reactions from the overwhelming ‘social science expert’ gallery, concepts like culture can, at times, be analysed using ‘pure science’ techniques to bring in a fresh perspective and approach to age-old and (often) worn-out debates. For this non-traditional academic presentation and approach, many attendees, including myself, are grateful. We often shudder at fresh ideas, particularly those from outside our realm, and this does us no favours.

Most importantly however, our collective knowledge of the presence/existence of past and present Shan culture (music, video, literature and art) was deeply reinforced by the speaker’s contradictory sentiments that a lack or even non-existence of Shan cultural material (at the very least historically) was the case at present. On a more personal note, his questionable stance helped those of us who actively research, analyse and comment on Shan culture fortify our endeavours, work that often leaves us feeling isolated at times. For this indirect encouragement, and his brave foray into social science, he is also to be commended.

To close, I would like to add that, although some of my comments are cutting, I am truly happy to have attended his (and each) presentation. Without events like the Conference on Shan Buddhism and Culture, such viewpoints, however dubious, would not be accessible; as a result, postings like this (and others) would not come to pass. It is my sincere hope that, in the coming year and years, more Shan events will be held worldwide so that this and many other Shan-related issues can be voiced, discussed, debated and expanded.

Have a wonderful holiday season and see you in 2008,

Naw Liang

Posted by Naw Liang Savage at 10:07 7 comments
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16 December 2007

Early December Round-up: Conference on Shan Buddhism and Culture (SOAS) and Mai soong pii mai tai (2102) on the internet
By Naw Liang (in Beijing, PRC and London, UK)

Preface
Apologies for the delay in getting this update online. Business in China and a nasty cold/flu have hampered my recent writing processes, though I seem to have pushed through finally. Additionally, as the end of the year approaches, activities of interest take a backseat to work, friends and family responsibilities, as they should. Alright, back to work.


Conference on Shan Buddhism and Culture
8-9 December 2007 at SOAS, University of London
I had the good fortune to attend the first ever academic conference on Shan Buddhism and culture held at SOAS' Brunei Gallery in central London (UK) in early December. A long time in the making, the event was a true success*: well-organised and competently managed; panels including well-known academics and religious figures from Burma/Myanmar, France, Thailand, Sri Lanka, Sweden, the US and the UK, including Nicola Tannenbaum, Nancy Eberhardt, the illustrious Chit Hlaing (Frank Lehman), Catherine Raymond; and expert insight(s) into an impressive breadth of topics, including history, linguistics, anthropology, religous studies and art and art history. While I, along with the 50 or so other spectators and participants, were treated to presentations, discussions and more throughout the event, we were also part of something unique: I have, over the years, done my own research far-and-wide, yet, without such an event, one is unable to go that next step - to question, discuss and even challenge theories and their proponents. That, more than any journal, essay or edited paper, is invaluable for fledgling researchers, academics and interested parties. I am already looking forward to the second annual conference, though, somewhat selfishly, hoping that it might be held somewhere more tropical and nearer our core subject. Fingers will stay crossed and eyes open for any news.

*My critique of the conference is only based on the first of two days (the second I was airborne for Beijing and beyond), but I have been assured by acquaintances that presented and attended that the quality was, in line with the first day, second-to-none. I'll eagerly await the video, which should be up online soon.

Mai soong pii mai tai (2102) on the internet
Although I missed out on the fantastic Shan New Year (Mai soong pii mai tai) festivities, which ran concurrently with the Conference on Shan Buddhism and Culture in London this year, I am not that disappointed. Let me explain.

Although this has been happening more and more recently, 2007 (or, rather, 2102) has seen the most amazing increase in Shan New Year greetings, celebrations, music, performances and get togethers (all via the world wide web) that I have ever witnessed. Although I and many here in the UK are privileged to be part of and party to the energetic members of the Shan Cultural Association of the UK - there events, posts and enthusiasm - there has been an extraordinary amount of content available online for Shan and Shan enthusiasts alike. There has been so much content that I have been unable to keep up. So, in an attempt to try, the following are but a small section of the Shan New Year content that I have found or been guided to:

Shan New Year celebrations (London, UK):
Traditional Shan New Year dances (performed by members of the SCA_UK)
YouTube videos:
Shan New Year traditional dance
Shan New Year traditional musical performance
Shan New Year traditional song

And, as a special treat, Shan New Year revellers in London were treated to a concert by the famous Shan musician Sai Htee Saing. For those of you who missed out, here are some videos of his fabulous performance.
YouTube videos: Sai Htee Saing videos (1) and (2),
Google Videos: Sai Htee Saing (1); Sai Htee Saing "Moung la pyie won" (2); Sai Htee Saing "Chit tar ta ku te the tae"
(3); Sai Htee Saing "For Nwet Tin" (4); Sai Htee Saing "Chit te Shan yo ma"(5); Sai Htee Saing "Kalay lay bawa" (6); Sai Htee Saing "Moung ta pat nwan" (7)
And some photos: SCA_UK Shan New Year 2102 and Happy Shan New Year 2102

Shan New Year celebrations (Yangon, Burma/Myanmar)
Photos: Shan New Year in Yangon 2102
(With 'thumping' backing track)

Shan New Year Celebrations (Singapore, Singapore)
See main photo above as I search for more.

If anyone out there has come across any other sites, particularly any from Northern Thailand or even Burma/Myanmar (my Thai is not quite good enough to conduct extensive searches through the internet), I would appreciate it if you could send them along. The more, the better.

Until next time, a belated Mai soong pii mai tai and happy holidays!

Colin 'Naw Liang' Savage

Posted by Naw Liang Savage at 12:23 5 comments
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22 November 2007

Shan New Year Songs Part II: Douk Su Pee Mai Tai
by Naw Liang (with the SCA UK)


Mai soong kha everyone!

Well, not to disappoint and, more importantly, to keep a public promise, here is the second installment of our string of Shan New Year's songs. With Shan New Year just around the corner - 7-8 December - time is of the essence. And, even if there may not be much (enough?) time to perfect your performances, the more you half-know, the more enjoyable.

The latest selection - Douk Su Pee Mai Tai - was graciously provided by the diligent member of the SCA UK here in London to help everyone prepare for (and get excited about) the upcoming Shan Conference at SOAS, which will include Shan New Year celebrations.
Many thanks.

However, this latest post is a bit more challenging, particularly for those of you - like myself - who are not the most fluent at reading Shan. Although the lyrics are in Shan only, have a go and try your best.

Douk Su Pee Mai Tai


Best of luck, enjoy yourselves and until the next song/posting....

Gyan ma chan tha ba seh,

Naw Liang
Posted by Naw Liang Savage at 22:19 2 comments
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11 November 2007

Shan New Year Songs Part I: Tai Hope Tope Gan
by Naw Liang (with help from SCA UK)

Mai soong kha!
The holiday season is in the air once again: crisper weather, Christmas trees, lights, music and a barrage of commercials (tv, radio and more). It is nice to see as the weather turns cold, darkness invades and takes over and life switches into hibernation.

But, no one, including the Christians, have a monopoly on 'end-of-the-year holiday cheer', and similar sights, sounds and sentiment are shared by many worldwide. There are as other and equally important events taking place - Hanukkah, Kwanza, Diwali and so on - that deserve their own airtime, their say and our consideration.

For the Shan, early December - usually around the 7th and 8th - is a time for for New Year celebrations: dancing, singing, gatherings and widespread merriment. This year, although I (and many like me) find ourselves outside predominantly Shan areas (Shan State, Northern Thailand), there are groups working hard to celebrate Shan New Year properly elsewhere, including Norway, the United Kingdom (London) and the US to name only a few.

However, for those of you still unable to attend a Shan New Year's event this year, I, with the incredible help of the Shan Cultural Association of the United Kingdom (SCA UK), will be posting Shan New Year songs and their lyrics so, at the very least, you might be able to sing along and remember, be inspired or just enjoy.
(I would also strongly recommend YouTube, which has seen an explosion of Shan content recently.)

For now, here is the first musical installment:

Tai Houp Tope Gan

And, for anyone seeking further information about Shan New Year, please visit here for an account from inside the Shan State - Hsipaw to be exact - from last year (2006). And, as always, Tinya has provided us with another intersting link to Shan New Year festivities through this video link (Shan fonts are necessary to read the text). Each and every one of these (and many more) links are fascinating for those yet to experience and those nostalgic about past celebrations.

In the end, whatever the link, site, video/sound file or party you find, Happy Shan New Year.


Naw Liang
Posted by Naw Liang Savage at 12:14 0 comments
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30 October 2007

Khun Sa: Shan liberator or drug warlord?
by Naw Liang

Mai soong kha.
Preface: I’ve been wondering whether or not to include this ‘information’ on All About Shan Studies. However, I have come to the conclusion that, good or bad, it is important to know about Khun Sa, his connection with the Shan and the lasting impact that he has and will have on Shan State for years to come.
Any comments or opinions are, as always, welcome.


Chang Chi-fu (張奇夫 Zhāng Qífú) aka Khun Sa
(17 February 1934 to 26 October 2007)
In late October 2007, news trickled out of Burma/Myanmar that the infamous drug warlord Khun Sa - once one of the world's most wanted men and, for some, a great liberation fighter - died at the age of 74 in the former Burmese capital Yangon on 26 October 26 (this date has been disputed ever since). Although no official details were released, he is believed to have died from a prolonged illness, possibly linked to diabetes, partial paralysis and high blood pressure, conditions that he had suffered from and been treated for over an extended period.


Khun Sa had been living in Yangon where he was allowed to slip into obscurity after surrendering to the ruling Burmese military junta, the State Law and Order Restoration Council or SLORC in 1996 (the SLORC was renamed the State Peace and Development Council (SPDC) in 1997). Through this arrangement, he was allowed to develop and maintain various businesses through heavily cloaked secrecy. Most importantly, Khun Sa received immunity from an international extradition order to face narcotics charges in the US in 1989.

Before his chosen obscurity, Khun Sa had been infamous for a narcotics kingdom that he had carved out of jungle valleys in the Golden Triangle of Eastern Shan State, including a fortress and private army that were heavily armed, including surface-to-air missiles. He had ruled his ‘opium kingdom’ for nearly 40 years, claiming that he was fighting for the independence of the Shan and helping to eradicate rebel groups. Through his Shan United Army , which became the Mong Tai Army, Khun Sa had apparently led a campaign for freedom, though his actions were regularly overshadowed by his world-class drug ring; the US’ Drug Enforcement Administration (DEA) even labelled Khun Sa the "Prince of Death" and offered up to £1m (US$2m) for his arrest. However, through his interesting deal with the then ruling SLORC, he escaped prosecution and lived out his days quietly.

Profile: Chang Chi-fu (aka Khun Sa)
Khun Sa, originally Chang Chi-fu. was born in a rural area of Shan State on February 17, 1933 to a Chinese father and Shan mother. Although receiving little formal education, he was trained by the Chinese Kuomintang, through whom he learned about warfare and opium. By 1960, Chang had already become a key figure in Golden Triangle narcotics trade – predominately opium and heroin – a
nd was also building and deepening strong networks (and stronger enemies) within influential circles. Sometime in the mid- to late-1960’s, Chang served in the Burmese militia, but was imprisioned in 1969 for supporting Shan independence. He was held for five years until his compatriots, through the kidnapping of two Russian doctors, forced his release. After regaining freedom, he took the Shan name 'Khun Sa' and allied himself with Shan separatists against the ruling Burmese military junta.

It was then that Khun Sa began organising his Shan United Army, which had 20,000 soldiers at its height. He began his campaign from inside neighbouring Thailand, but this was short-lived when the Thais became unhappy with a known drug kingpin operating within their borders. He was pushed out and into the border areas of Burma/Myanmar in 1982 where he relocated to the remote and dream-like valley of Ho Mong on the Burmese side of the Thai-Burmese border.

Life at Ho Mong was good for Khun Sa, and he led a somewhat idyllic life – chain-smoking, entertaining brave visitors and growing flowers and strawberries. He was known to tell visiting foreign journalists that he was ‘a king without a crown’, though king of where (or what) was never explained. Despite his outward rebel persona, Khun Sa remained and acted as a major conduits for the illegal heroin trade, and it is believed that he was responsible, at his zenith, for nearly one quarter of the world’s heroin.

A self-proclaimed Shan President?
In 1994, Khun Sa's vision for Shan separatism reached a new low – mainly due to a renewed offensive by the SLORC and heavy fighting with the wild Wa – and he realised that the political balancing act he was playing had begun to unravel. However, in this tense situation, Khun Sa attempted something extraordinary: he convened a Shan ‘parliament’, which was attended by many delegates, and announced the establishment of an independent Shan State. Most shocking of all, he declared himself president. Period.

Although he is thought to have perceived this as a strong move towards creating stability within the Shan independence forces, Khun Sa's leap into radical rebel politics hurt him deeply. Most of all, his shifting attention (and blatant arrogance) caused him to lose control of his forces: a major blow occurred when a group, titled the Shan State National Army (SSNA), broke from his Mok Tai Army in 1995. This splinter group accused ‘the president’ of using Shan separatism as a front for drug running, which resulted in a tremendous drop in support, as well as openly questioning his suitability - again due to involvement with drugs - as a leader of Shan resistence and independence. His 'popularity', both inside and outside Shan State, suffered as a result.

Drug money, strange political and economic ideas
Although Khun Sa was quick to claim that drug money helped finance the Shan people’s struggle for independence, very little of his economic success ever reached the Shan people. And, Khun Sa's strange mixture of difficult and conflicting issues - such as arguing that only economic development could help Shan State and that such economic development could come from the stable opium crop - never managed to claim many supporters, particularly Western governments. Later on, Khun Sa's increasing use of blame, particularly on the 'drug crazed West ' for Shan State problems, were also widely discounted and confusing.

Yet, despite this, Khun Sa remained an independence figher, continuing to grapple with the SLORC as well as rival ethnic groups throughout Shan State until 1996. His surrender in 1996, including the ceremonial handing over of two of his personal rifles to a Tatmadaw colonel, was his strangest (at first) move of all. To the surprise of many outsiders, he gave into the military junta and disbanded his Mong Tai Army. The shock was later played down when it was learned that a major part of the surrender was due to an offer of protection from the SLORC against extradition to the US. While cozing up to the Burmese military junta, Khun Sa moved from his valley Shangri La to metropolitan Yangon, where he lived a luxurious life and ran a string of concessions, including a transport company and a ruby mine in Northern Burma. Furthermore, rumours of his continuing presence in the international narcotics trade remained, though the majority of his enterprise was taken over by the Wa, his former enemies.

Narcotics warlord or Shan liberator and freedom fighter?
Who knows? Although Khun Sa's apparent dedication to Shan independence - establishing, funding(?), training and leading the Shan United Army and then Mong Tai Army - as well as his attempt, albeit misguided, to re-organising and re-energising an independent Shan government (and be its self-proclaimed president) cannot be discredited, his fundamental links to and control of the illegal drug trade - often regarded as a major cause of bad press against Shan rebel activity - cannot be ignored. So, in the end, can we really say, bluntly, that Khun Sa was good or bad?

It is here, with this apparent dichotomy, that I have difficulty. Although there is an envisioned 'good' in freedom fighting, particularly when against the likes of the SLORC/SPDC, there is also an inherent 'bad' label for drug dealers, especially international narcotic trafficking ring leaders. However, in the case of Khun Sa, I cannot understand why the two are (or should be) compared. Yes, we are aware of the underlying links between the two - mainy their clear public persona - but these roles cannot be played off against each other. Khun Sa was a Shan liberator and a major drug trafficker. Period. He was neither dictionary-defined defined good nor bad, and he should not be viewed as such. Although his actions and methods were often highly suspect, he should be remembered for the uniqueness of the choices and paths that he made - some good (challenging the Burmese military junta and convening a Shan parliment) and some bad (supplying and expanding the illegal narcotics trade, declaring himself president and others). What is more important, Khun Sa tried to bring about Shan independence in his own way and with his own verve.
While the methods may be suspect, there is no fault in 'trying'. And, for his attempts and efforts, I believe that he should be respected. If anything, let us hope that they inspire others: to learn from, amend and, ultimately, succeed.

Update
It's been a while since I thought about Khun Sa, but I stumbled upon the video below and thought two things: 1. videos can be, depending upon quality, an excellent educator; and 2. this post could use an update. I wonder what the Shan equivalent for "kill two birds with one stone" is? Any help.

For now, enjoy the video, entitled 'Khun Sa: Opium Warlord of the World' by Journeyman TV, can be found here (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ji2S_cGFPqc&feature=related). Enjoy...
Posted by Naw Liang Savage at 12:31 0 comments
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04 October 2007

And it continues to grow: Conference on Shan Buddhism and Culture

by Naw Liang

(with the Shan Cultural Association UK and SOAS)
----------------

Event
: Conference on Shan Buddhism and Culture

Date
: 8-9 December 2007

Location
: SOAS, University of London

----------------

Mai soong kha!

As I have been saying for some time, studies on the Shan and Shan State are booming. New organisations - most notably the Shan Cultural Association UK (see here) - combined with growing numbers of Shan scholars and their craft are truly bringing Shan studies to the forefront across the globe. There is no let up in sight, and I, one of many, am overjoyed.

Most recently, my alma mater - The School of Oriental and African Studies - a pillar of encouragement for ethnic studies since the early 20th century, has, with the help of the SOAS Centre for Buddhist Studies, been chosen as the location for the inaugural 'Conference on Shan Buddhism and Culture' in early December (see an initial announcement made via the Australian National University's highly acclaimed New Mandala newsletter here). The first event of its kind, it is being joint arranged and promoted by the Shan Cultural Assocaition UK with the goal of bringing awareness of the diversity and efforts of Shan scholars worldwide, while creating a forum in London to discuss interests in and share insights into Shan culture, religion and society. This is a wonderful opportunity, doubly good because it is taking place in my backyard.

I am all for this.
The aim of the conference - for scholars, established and up-and-coming, to network and, if possible, develop connections for future international collaboration on Shan history and culture - is right up my alley. After all, that is the raison d'etre of this website.
This is very exciting.


Although a deadline for preliminary papers (7 September) has already passed, I am certain that an intriguing range of presentations, ideas and opinions - on
Shan history, sociology, anthropology, language & literature and music - will be presented. It promises to be a truly memorable event, and one to start a very positve trend.

Attendance is limited (or may even be full now?), so any requests to attend must be booked immediately by email to:

Jotika Khur-yearn (Secretary)
Organising Committee

Conference on Shan Buddhism and Culture

Tel: +44 (0)20 7898 4771
Mobile: +44 (0)77 2767 7550

Fax: +44 (0)20 7898 4489
Email: jk53@soas.ac.uk

I am eagerly awaiting the conference, but what is might mean for the future of Shan Studies in the UK and throughout the world. And, most important of all, I look forward to meeting all of you there.

Gyan ma chan tha ba seh,

Naw Liang
in London

*Note: The main image of the poster above has been diligently and generously explained by Jotika below:
"
The main image is the picture of Pang Ya or Pangtara (Pintaya in Burmese), an ancient site, west of Taungyi, Shan State, Burma. The Pintaya cave has been an attractive place for tourists for some time with many ancient Buddha images found inside the cave. The site is also an important source and site of local Shan myths and historical events. However, this is only one of many important Buddhist landscapes in Shan State." Click the picture to enlarge.
Posted by Naw Liang Savage at 21:22 0 comments
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25 September 2007

Monks energise politics: What about Shan State?
by Naw Liang (in London via Tokyo and Bangkok)


[Although this web blog has tried to avoid politics, the massive rallies and violence taking place in Burma/Myanmar cannot be ignored. In this special case, I have written about the events, though with a Shan focus. I hope you all understand.]

It's all over the news - monks gathering, citizens joining and protecting them as they march through the streets of Yangon, Mandalay and so much more. Are things set to change, or is there another 8/8/88 in store? News wires of troops gathering in the streets of Yangon are worrying. Let's hope that cooler (and sympathetic) heads prevail...

I have been glued to the tv (BBC, ABC, NHK, etc.) and have tired my fingers out looking for information on the internet, including videos that pop up and then, confusingly, disappear from online video sites like YouTube. Could it be that the Burmese government's internet security - Bagan Cybertech and their foreign security experts (read the OpenNet Initiative's report on Myanmar here) - are doing their dirty work? But I am getting away from the topic; this is for another post at another time.

The trickle of information dries up
Information is getting out - through texts, camera photos and video - about the activities in major cities, particularly Yangon, despite an information clampdown. This has been steadily increasingly following the monks first taking to Yangon's streets on 1
9 August, though, following surging numbers of visible troops and escalating violence (particularly 25-28 September), the clampdown on information getting out (and international outrage getting back in) appears to be holding fast and maintaining a suffocating grip.

The protests: why did they start (this time)?
There are an arm's length of reasons for this action, but the igniting factor appears to be a previous protest in
Pakokku against drastic doubling of petrol, diesel and cooking oil prices that caused a violent reaction from the military, injuring numerous monks with tear gas and the arrest of four others. The current protests, which are taking place all over the country, came after a deadline set by the monks for an apology from the military government passed with no official action. They have continued to gather steam: the monks initially refused alms (called patta nukkujjana kamma (the act of overturning the bowl) from military and government SPDC personnel (a grave insult in this devout Buddhist country) and then took to the streets, first arm in arm, before civilians joined in to protect and support their cause. As of late on 25 September, more than 100,000 (some reports stated as high as 150,000) people, including monks, have joined in the protests, mainly concentrated in Yangon around its two major religious sites, the Sule Pagoda (the heart) and the Shwedagon Pagoda (the soul) (see here for details).

And in Shan State? Yawdserk and his 'support'
However, I wonder about the Shan State, about Keng Tung, about any possible marches and protests in the far-removed-from-Yangon Shan State. What is going on? Is there any news? The best that I have been able to uncover (through an assortment of contacts, some not uncontactable, and voracious news reading) is limited.

A news excerpt from S.H.A.N (see here) reported on the
Colonel Yawdserk, leader of the anti-junta Shan State Army (SSA) South, openly supporting the monks in their refusal of alms from Burma's SPDC rulers. Yawdserk went on to state that the monks' acts were "...the culmination of the regime's decades of misrule and belittlement of the people" before adding a long list of wrongs that the SPDC had committed to the people of Burma/Myanmar to build up the current bad blood.

I was impressed by Yawdserk's comments - his conviction, his diplomacy and his determination (especially in calling for international support of the protests) - but there was something about his speech, his tone that didn't seem right. I thought for a while, and then it occurred to me.

Looking back: consistency?
Little more than three months earlier, I remember reading and being somewhat confused by an S.H.A.N. article where the same Yawdserk had told Shan monks to stay above politics ("
Shan Leader wants monks to stay above politics" (14/05/2007).

To summarise, Yawdserk, during a two-day assembly of Shan monks in Loi Taileng (opposite Mae Hong Son) asserted that Shan monkhood should remain a refuge for all sections of Shan society and remain nonaligned and neutral. By staying out of politics, monks can continue to be regarded as strict observers of the vinaya (the monastic code of discipline), pariyatti (study of the Buddhist scriptures) and patipatti (practice of Buddhist teachings). He added that monks should be leaders and teach all groups to love each other. By entering politics, the monks would be throwing away their life goal to to uphold and propagate the Buddha’s teachings and, ultimately, place freedom in peril. An underlying reason for this plea also included a fear that untrained Shan monks might, if lead away from their duties, be replaced by Burmese monks sympathetic to the junta.

Yet, this three-month, 180 degree turnaround is confusing: first telling monks, particularly Shan, to avoid the evils of politics and 'stick to the path' to encouraging monks - the pillars of society, its conscious, Burmese, Shan or otherwise - to lead the way, be the people's champions and bring about change. Is he in favour of only Burmese monks endeavouring in politics (which here means 'change'), while Shan monks remain austere? Are Shan monks, with their own unique and relevant Shan viewpoints, not as needed, if not
more so, in the Shan State than those Burmese monks taking action natiowide?

Confusion sets in: for or against?
Yes, confusing indeed. I would have thought that, at a time like this, Shan monks would be encouraged to join in, voicing Shan needs, future desires and past hurt, particularly in areas remote (by distance and access to media) like Keng Tung and beyond. And surely this encouragement would be forthcoming (and should remain steady) from the leader of a major Shan indepedence organisation. Some are already doing this - a few Shan monks are active in politics, especially following the arrests of Khun Tun Oo (leader of Shan Nationalities League of Democracy (SNLD) and his colleagues in February 2005. Why wouldn't Yawkserk always and unwaveringly encourage Shan monks to follow this path and, even more so now, join in and demand change? I just don't, I can't, understand.

But, for now, there are more important things to focus our energy on. Let our thoughts, actions and outrage be with the defiant monks and nuns - Burmese, Shan, Karen, Kachin, Mon, Arakan, Chin and so on - and every courageous citizen standing up, joining in and refusing to remain silent and still, no longer cowering in the face of their jailors.
Kan kaung ba sa kinbya.

Mai soong kha,

Naw Liang

==========
Aside:
If there is an immediate positive to the current events (there are many more, but we will discuss those later), it is the exposure of the Burmese situation - political suffocation, economic strife and, above all else, institutationalised fear - to the world. The more people know...
==========

Posted by Naw Liang Savage at 10:02 0 comments
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05 September 2007

Looking back: 1930's Kengtung in photos
by Naw Liang

=====================
Once again, I am indebted to the resourcefulness of fellow Shan scholar Tinya Wollweber for uncovering this lead. Mai soong kha Tinya...

And, more importantly, I am grateful (and wish that I could say so in person) to Mi Mi Khang. An extraordinary woman, her Kanbawsa: a series of articles on the Shan State (published in the 1950's) is a wealth of cultural and political information on the Shan State. Her writing, painstakingly transposed onto the web by Sao Khai Mong, is a unique insight into the Shan State - many locales have their own articles - that has now become an historical treat. I hope to thank Sao Khai Mong sometime soon (the email does not work), and I am truly saddened to think that I cannot congratulate Mi Mi Khang.
Mai soong kha...
=====================


Mai soong kha!

I find myself in a unique position recently: full of energy, eager to research and write and flush with information, links and leads, many from hardwork (and luck), good friends, fellow Shan scholars and others. It is a good time to be (re)searching and even better to write.

And, this entry is a perfect example of this verve, not to mention the calibre of information that is increasingly making its way onto public sources. More and more, I (and others) are finding unique sources - history, insight, art, news, culture and so on -that help to expand the exposure of the Shan. And every bit of it is appreciated.

That said, this latest finding is truly amazing and encouraging.
Sao Khai Mong's online photo gallery - Kengtung in the 1930's - is one of the most interesting , most beautifully informative ShanShan sites that I have seen in some time. Although I have always had an affinity for older photographs, these are more than merely quaint snapshots. These photos are an excellent record of, a 'window' into life of 1930's Kengtung and Shan State.

Much had happened in the Shan State by the 1930s: from the arrival of the British and, soon afterwards, the French during the Mekong Exploration Commission's trek up the Mekong in 1866-68 (see John Keay's 'Mad About The Mekong'); the unfathomable influence of J. George Scott (see Andrew Marshall's 'The Trouser People') through extensive exploration, studies and writing in the 1880s; the British annexation of the Shan State in 1887; and, somewhat later, an array of explorers, travellers and authors (including W. Somerset Maugham and his 'The Gentleman in the Parlor' travelogue, which has two chapters devouted to Kengtung) who made their way through modern-day Shan State. Much had happened indeed.

Yet, despite the range and impact of these influences - particularly the rule of King Thibaw and the British colonisation that happened swiftly after - the Shan retained a strong sense of self, of identity, of their culture and of their traditions. Many of the photos available here - the processions, gatherings, audiences with the saopha and more - clearly illustrate this: a people sure of who they are and what they believe in. But, I am giving too much away (or reading too much into?) these photographs already. Just enjoy...

Thanks again to Tinya, Sao Khai Mong and Mi Mi Khang. I hope that I can get in touch with them, and that they will also continue to provide excellent materials on the Shan for us all to enjoy.

Mai soong kha,

Naw Liang
Posted by Naw Liang Savage at 21:47 0 comments
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23 August 2007

Ancient nets cast far: Ceylon (Sri Lanka), the Shan State and Buddhism

It never fails to amaze me: the internet is so vast.

During another late night troll through its offerings (actually, I was googling 'All about Shan Studies' to see if it would pop up - it, eventually, did), I came across a unique site - it was unique because, in all my Shan research and searches, I have never come across this topic before.

The Ceylon Journey is a site devoted to the "journey of academic studies embarked on by the Shan / Tai Sangha from the Shan State, China's Yunnan Province, Thailand and elsewhere [in relation to historical] and cultural relationships between the Shan Sangha and (Ceylon) Sri Lanka - past and present." In short, it acts as an All about Shan Studies for the transmission of Buddhist teachings from their earlier origins in modern-day Sri Lanka worldwide, but particularly to the Shan State.

The site is teeming with information on Shan State Buddhism and its history, including special sections on Buddhism in Keng Tung and a short biography of a leading Shan Buddhist figure, Venerable Dr. Khammai Dhammasamis, including articles by him. Furthermore, this site will be of particular interest to Buddhist scholars and historians, especially those interested in the icons of early Shan Buddhist studies and teachings: Sao Jarng Khun Aik, a brother of King Sur Khan Fa and considered one of the first Shan Buddhist monks, as well as Venerable PannyabhogaMongShu) (link is in Tai only). Even today, many young Shan Buddhist monks make the long journey to Sri Lanka to study Buddhism, largely through the assistance of Dr. Khammai Dhammasamis. His efforts, in all areas, are greatly appreciated.

Enjoy the site and remember: all nets, however ancient, can be cast quite far.

Mai soong kha,


Naw
Liang
Posted by Naw Liang Savage at 22:08 0 comments
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06 July 2007

Fruit carving: a beautiful and intricate art
London, United Kingdom (SCA_UK)

Mai soong kha everyone!

My father has always told me that 'you learn something new everyday'; whether or not you are aware of it is something else entirely. I believe that we are infinitely capable of learning new things, though we risk losing what we have already gained by not actively remembering.
What on earth am I getting at?

Recently, I had my memory jogged by some photos from the very active and talented members of the Shan Cultural Association of the United Kingdom (SCA_UK) of something that I had long forgotten, but had always wished to recall someday: fruit carving.

During one of my first visits to Myanmar in the late 1990s, I stayed in a small town in Sagaing Division, with my hotel/hostel located near a temple. It became a ritual for me to wake up early, down a thick cup of coffee and prepare myself for the procession of monks gathering alms along the route to their temple. Then, one Friday afternoon, as the heat rose and activity levels - mostly mine - dropped, I noticed that the town was particularly quiet. There was no one in sight except for a buzz at one distant end of the main street. I followed the sound and found dozens of women actively chatting in a circle as they sliced, shaped, shaved and gored various pieces of fruit - papaya, watermelon, etc. - with a variety of knives and other tools. I was entranced. And, by late evening, they had produced spectacular works of art - an array of flowers, birds and even ancient Buddhist scenes (from the more skilled carvers) - that, together, formed a vertible (and edible) fruit gallery. I took pictures of it and had hoped to write something about it someday, but my bag fell off the boat and into the Irrawaddy.... The rest is history.

Until recently.

Members of the SCA_UK held a fruit carving evening recently in London: to remember, to practice and, most importantly, to share this amazing and creative skill with others. The photo above - taken by Nang Zune Pan Aye (thank you) - is an excellent record of some of the pieces produced that afternoon/evening. There are other and equally amazing photos around, and I will be sure to include them in future posts. For now, enjoy the watermelon flowers...

Lastly, there is some need for clarity: fruit carving is not uniquely Shan. Other ethnic groups in South East Asia - the Thai, Burmese and Lao - also actively and artistically carve fruit. This unique art form also appears to be intricately linked with Buddhist festivals - such as the Swan Tor Long in Mon State - and usually takes place in a marathon of fruit carving in the days and evening before the festival. There are other festivals - a friend has mentioned seeing something similar in Northern Shan State - that involved fruit carving and I am on the hunt for further information. If anyone has witnessed or knows of any such activities, please feel free to let me know at your convenience. Thank you for your help.

Well, that is all for now. For those of you, most likely North Americans like myself, fruit carving is much, much more than jack-o-lanterns at Hallowe'en - they are beautiful works of art.

Mai soong kha,

Naw Liang

P.S. Further details on Swan Tor Long will be available in the next post. I promise

P.P.S.S. A brief dig uncovered some interesting links to fruit carving. Most of all was the discovery of professional fruit carving artists in South East Asia, such as Htay Htay Win (Myanmar), as well as a variety of print and online guides, including this site from Thailand. Finally, for more photos of this intricate food art, please visit here.

Posted by Naw Liang Savage at 23:21 1 comments
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28 May 2007

Remembering Wat Jong Awk
Amphoe Fang, Thailand

---------------------------
Note: Many thanks to Tinya Wollweber for providing the photos (there are six in all) of some Shan murals painted on the walls of Wat Jong Awk, which was sadly destroyed by an electrical fire in 2005. Without the photos, these great works would have been lost forever.

---------------------------

Mai soong kha!

Welcome back! After a wonderful Songkran, it is time for another update. This time, however, I am indebted to fellow Shan enthusiast Tinya for the topic - Shan Buddhist temple murals and the loss of Wat Jong Awk in Fang, Thailand. Although I have me Tinya only once - to discuss Shan- and other Burma/Myanmar-related issues on the steps of
SOAS - we (mostly him) have been actively emailing information, insight and other things Shan for the past six months or so. I am constantly surprised by his wealth of information and energy for the Shan cause. Let's hope he continues to 'send interesting tidbits' like this my way to be shared with everyone.

Amphoe Fang: a lesser crossroads to Shan State
I have been to and through Fang many times, but am not familiar with the town; I tend to make my way straight to Ban Thaton, where one can scale the steps of
Wat Thaton and gaze out over the Mae Kok river at the old chalet. It is only 2km down river from the Burmese border and the Shan State, but was, until the late 19th century, a major transit spot on the Thai-Burma border. As a result of its close proximity, it has always been a useful spot for me, though 'officially' no journeys upriver into Burma are allowed. (I may expand on this later.)

Amphoe Fang is a very important area of Northern Thailand for Shan enthusiasts and researchers, mainly for its closeness to the Shan State (as mentioned above). More interestingly, although it lies on a less travelled route between the two countries, which can be advantegous for some, Fang is rich in Shan history, culture, language and people, deeply and to a less diluted extent than in other, sometimes larger areas, such as Chiang Rai, Chiang Mai, Mae Hong Song or even Mae Sai. Furthermore, its proximity to the Shan State and the relative ease (though sporadic and dangerous) of movement by people between the two countries is also an interesting factor. That said, recurring insurgency - between any number of groups including the Burmese army, the pro-SPDC United Wa State Army (UWSA), numerous Shan insurgent groups and, if action spills over into Thailand, Thai forces - make it a less-than-safe place to be or travel through at times. And, with the addition of rampant and grave human rights abuses and citizenship issues (for ethnic and often illegal Shan immigrants to Thailand), the area's security is less than the best.

But, I am getting off topic.


Wat Jong Awk and its murals
The photo of a Buddhist mural above - one of many Tinya has passed on to me - was taken at Wat Jong Awk in Fang in 2003. Tinya mentioned that the wat was destroyed in 2005 due to an electrical fire, and I was unable to find out any more information on Wat Jong Awk despite talking with an Akha friend in Thaton and a Thai researcher in Chiang Mai. Regardless, the temple and its artwork are no more. This is truly a shame as the photos are wonderful records of this Shan temple's amazing artwork: a pure assertion of core Buddhist values expressed in definitive Shan style. While they, in common with most Buddhist murals, tell us a story - which one I am not expert enough to decipher - and celebrate Buddhism and the belief in it, I am more fascinated by the intrinsic Shan-ness of them. The style is distinctly Shan: vibrant colours, which are emphasised by the extensive use of dark colours, including black; the definitively Shan clothing, such as men in turbans; and, most obviously, Buddhist precepts written in Shan. I will try to include the other photos at a later date as I believe that they illustrate Shan religious artwork very well, particularly in comparison to those in neighbouring Thai temples.

*For further information on Buddhist murals in Northern Thailand, including Shan, please visit this article by John P. Ferguson and Christina B. Johannsen. The article, though dated (1973), provides an excellent overview of Buddhist murals in Northern Thailand. It is also the only scholarly work that I was able to uncover despite some searching.

Once again, many thanks to Tinya for the photos. I hope that everyone has enjoyed this post and will, if possible, comment or criticize my views on the religious murals from Wat Jong Awk (Have you visited it? Any more photos? What do you know of Shan religious art? Is my evaluation on the right track?) and Shan religious art in general. Your thoughts are always appreciated.

Gyan ma chan tha ba seh,

Naw Liang
Posted by Naw Liang Savage at 13:15 2 comments
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